In the Making

Entries tagged as ‘pork’

Apple Cider Braised Pork Roast

October 5, 2008 · Leave a Comment

Fill your home with the delicious smell of autumn and instead of a puddle of Yankee candle wax, you’ll have dinner at the end.

Apple Cider Braised Pork Roast
1 4-5lb pork roast
salt and pepper 
grapeseed oil
5 yellow onions, sliced
2 stalks celery, chopped
2 cloves garlic, smashed
2 bay leaves
5 juniper berries
5 allspice berries
1 tablespoon peppercorns 
2 twigs fresh rosemary
2 twigs fresh thyme
3/4 cup Bragg’s apple cider vinegar
1 1/2 cup apple cider
2 cups chicken stock

cheesecloth
kitchen twine 

Salt and pepper generously all sides of your pork roast. The roast I used has the bone in it still, but you could use a boneless roast, it will cook faster. Heat grapeseed oil on high heat in the bottom of a large dutch oven, or heavy bottomed pot with tight-fitting lid, until it shimmers. (I love my Le Creuset. Thanks Brother & Ine for a perfect wedding present!) 

Put pork in the pot. It should sizzle and spit. Roll it around to sear all sides. You’re only going to put each side on the bottom once, so roll it over and let it cook 4 or 5 minutes. You want it very brown but not burned. When all sides are seared, including the ends, remove the pork to a plate and set aside. Add the onions and stir to coat with the oil and yummy rendered pork fat. Cook until the onions are caramelized on the edges. This requires that you resist the urge to stir. You’ll cook them for about 10 minutes, stirring only once or twice.

While the onions are cooking, make a sachet of the celery, garlic, bay leaves, juniper and allspice berries, peppercorns, rosemary and thyme. To do this, cut a large piece of cheesecloth. If the wholes are big, double it over so none of your peppercorns get away. This sachet is just for flavor so at the end, you’ll pull it out and toss it into your compost pile. Lay your cheesecloth flat and pile all the ingredients in the middle. Pull the corners up and tie around the top with kitchen twine. Think of a hobo’s sachet. It should look like that. Set aside.

When the onions are caramelized, add the cider vinegar and cider. Scrap the bottom of your pot to get all the bits off the bottom and into the sauce. Add the chicken stock and bring to a simmer. Put the pork back in, along with the sachet, turn the heat to low, cover and simmer 3 hours (45 minutes – 1 hour for boneless) rolling around every 20 minutes or so. 

When the pork is done, it will have shrunken significantly and should register 160 degrees against the bone. Remove to a plate and loosely tent with aluminum foil. Remove and toss the sachet, thanking it for its hard work. If you have a compost pile, you can toss the whole thing in. Simmer the braising liquid until it reduces by half. That’s your gravy*.

Serve with potatoes boiled, mashed, baked or otherwise and a green vegetable. Sauerkraut or apple sauce make good sides too. And the gravy. Mmmm….fall….

*If you prefer a thicker gravy, you can make a roux. Roux is going to be its own entry, but in a nutshell, put 2 tablespoons of fat (oil or butter) into a skillet. Heat to high and stir in 2 T unbleached flour. Stir constantly with a whisk until the flour smell is gone. Add 1 tablespoon finely minced celery and pull from the heat. The celery stops the cooking – don’t skip this step. Stir the roux into the gravy one teaspoon at a time until desired thickness is achieved. This is the nutshell version. Stay tuned for the how, when, and why of roux coming pre-Thanksgiving dinner.

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Food for Thought

September 25, 2008 · 3 Comments

*If you don’t want to know where your food comes from, avert your eyes.

I came across this today and am… at a loss for words*. Go ahead, click on the link, it’ll open in a new window. Take a read and come back.

So, shockingly Hershey’s was at one time in recent history making a real-ish version of chocolate. Now debuting, however is a “chocolate candy” including such dubious words as “resinous glaze” and “carnuba wax” in the ingredients list. This new chocolate, which Hershey’s claims consumers “love” debuts at the same time as their “Pure Chocolate” advertising campaign. Hm.

There seems to be this pervasive sense in this country that if enough people say a lie/misstatement of the truth enough times, that lie slowly becomes accepted as fact. I could [insert current events examples here] but you probably are already feeling the effects of those, so I won’t remind you.

I on the other hand, am broke, so this calamity is really neither here nor there. Until this new form of truthiness begins to effect my food choices.

Of course I don’t have to buy Hershey’s. I don’t. I’m a snob. However, millions of people do. I am not an evangilist or anything like that BUT I do think there is something very wrong and possibly illegal about saying “Hershey’s pure chocolate” when in fact, its not actually chocolate. Not according to the FDA anyway who overlooks a lot of stuff.

So, what’s a person to do?

A. Not care. Figure lots more people would be up-in-arms if this was actually a big deal, and toss back another carnuba-waxy Milk Dud.

B. Stand on a soapbox in the Halloween aisle and try to persuade the parents of advertising-soaked kids to opt for the raisins instead.

C. Base your food choices on actual truth (I can’t believe that I have actually qualify the word “truth”) and surround yourself with like-minded individuals who won’t try to convince you that the advertisements for high fructose corn syrup actually make a compelling case. Thank you corn lobby.

I’m going with C. For Halloween, I’ll be handing out boxes of crayons. Easy, cheap, and lets kids get pleasure out of something other than candy.

Beyond that, I am educating myself and anyone else who is interested. If this web of farm-to-table is intriguing to you, start by reading The Omnivore’s Dilemma by Michael Pollan. There are some very dense science lessons involved, but I walked away from that book feeling grounded in my decision to try to eat low on the food chain.

What does that mean? The fewer steps away from pure animal, vegetable or fungi, the better. So little to no processing. Also, not buying foods that contribute to a global health crisis, both for the farmer and the consumer. Primarily, bananas and high fructose corn syrup.

Let’s go a little deeper. (Again, if you don’t want to know where food comes from, navigate away now.)

Since I was a kid, my food has primarily come from my parent’s backyard, or when I was very young, my father’s fishing boat. These were the days of Lunchables and Chef Boyardee and I was the kid with a flounder sandwich. We ate fish nearly every night. I begged to please, just one night to eat something normal, like spaghetti. To which my mom would reply, “we’re having spaghetti. Spaghetti and fish.” I spent many dinners over at my friend Suzie’s house, where her parents ate normally. Their macaroni and cheese came out of a neat aluminum packet, no handmade bechamel sauce at their house! Instead, a comforting pile of bright orange normalcy.

Bear in mind, I was cooking all along. I regularly made french toast with eggs from my backyard. But our eggs were brown and none of my friends tolerated egg salad, let alone (gasp!) a hard boiled egg! Eeeew! I won Best in Show for my Peanut Butter Pockets at the Riverhead Country Fair with those very same eggs. Additionally, I didn’t have a television that showed anything other that (old family joke) “static, static, static and the news.”  So, when foods were advertised, I wasn’t around to see them. Unless I was at Suzie’s house and I could eat Lucky Charms as their images danced between Saturday morning cartoons.

It wasn’t really until I got to college that I began to understand that this lack of access to processed foods (thank you mom and dad!) had shaped the lens through which I was beginning to see the world. Take the Dining Hall. One swipe of my card, and an all you could eat buffet revealed itself. I went to a very progressive school that enrolled many Vegans and dancers, two groups known for being particular about what they eat. Their influence on the cafeteria was revealed in the massive salad bar, a hot vegan station, a make-your-own-pasta station and Tofutti Cuties in the freezer. In the first weeks, sitting down with new people from around the race and class spectrum, the majority of them went for the upside down tubs of Apple Jacks and Honey Comb cereals, while I went for actual apples and honey.

Again, though, I’m not evangelical about this. To this day, I eat my fair share of crap. The difference between me and the uninitiated is that I am making a conscientious decision, knowing full-well the ramifications of my food choices, both on myself and the world at large. Here’s an example I learned from Michael Pollan’s book:

Bacon at a diner will be very hard for me to give up. Bacon from anywhere, actually, but a farm that I can go and see the pigs if I so choose. I went this weekend to Ray Bradley’s farm and met my bacon. No Kafka moments to speak of, just stinky, dirty pigs.

Why is this so important? Because in a CAFO (Confined Animal Feeding Operation – which is where everything is raised if not on a small farm) the piglets are weaned from their mother after 10 days, instead of the 6-10 weeks that nature allows. This results in a corral stuffed with little piggies who still have the biological want to suck on something, and what is available is the tail of the little piggy in front of them. The receiving piglets don’t seem to care, and allow the suckling on their tails, but this can lead to infection and so to curb this behavior, the tails are, without any anesthesia, chopped off. Not so low as to kill the nerve-endings, but left just long enough so that if a little piggy comes along to suck a swollen nub of spinal chord, the resulting pain is so blinding that the otherwise docile animal turns around and screeches for the prematurely-weaned sucker to move on.

Nice, right?

Now, I’m not telling you this to gross you out or to traumatize you. I’m telling you this because you don’t have to give up bacon or pork chops! Just buy them from a farmer. An actual, honest to goodness person who lovingly and graciously raises his or her animals the way nature intended. The strongest argument against veganism is that if it wasn’t for people eating them, the pig (and chicken and cow) would have dropped off the evolutionary landscape a long time ago.

In the case of chocolate, good, fair trade, real chocolate is widely available. Meat, you have to do a little work. You can’t walk into Whole Foods, buy the pork chops and feel okay about your decision because their CAFOs employ exactly the same methods, except the foods that the animals eat is organic. Whole Foods then markets the pastoral ideal to you, and you want to believe your piggies had tails. I’m sorry to break it to you. But, if you think about it, no single farmer could keep up with all the demand. And the pork has to come from somewhere. Lucky for you, you get to choose from where. Or, you can choose truthiness and instant gratification.

Here’s a starting point. Make a day of it! Make some room in your freezer, find a local winery or cheese maker and go buy yourself a supply of pork to eat, anytime you want, truthfully.

*I’m never at a loss for words.

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Ribs. Mmmmm… Ribs.

July 14, 2008 · Leave a Comment

The Gourmand & I, as you know, love to share our secrets and success with you. Ribs are one of those things that takes passion, love, attention and a willingness to stand over a hot grill, mopping and making love, while everyone else is enjoying the party. That’s pretty much the secret. That, and the rub and mopping sauce you use. That said, each person’s secrets evolve out of many parties and willing guests who keep you company around the fire. I can’t give you our exact recipe, in part because we don’t exactly have one. But here are some tips to put you in the running for Pit Master:

The Meat


Always pork. Look for a good amount of marbling – have you heard fat=flavor? The fat melts on the heat leaving behind succulent meat. As for the cut, there are several. Each name (St. Louis, Full Rack, Baby Back, etc.) refers to the amount of trimming that’s been done from the original full rack butchering. We look in the case, and pick the meat based on fat content and how many people we’re feeding. The cooking time will change a little, but set aside at least 4 hours of smoke time adjusting the temperature to medium low as you go along, hence the need to stand guard.

The Rub

Anything you have in your pantry will do. Seriously. Here’s a loose version of ours (in no particular order):


Brown Sugar
Coriander
Cumin
Kosher salt
Black pepper
Chile pepper
Celery seed
Garlic powder
Onion powder
Thyme

Rub the meat 24 hours before you plan to cook. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate the racks overnight.

The Fire & The Mopping Sauce

Low and slow. In the picture above, see the aluminum foil? That’s a packet filled with soaked wood chips of your choice, apple, cherry, etc.

As for the mopping sauce, again our ingredients in no particular order:
Bragg’s apple cider vinegar
Water
Any or all of the spice rub spices
Ketchup
Something sweet, like molasses, maple syrup or honey
Mustard
Worcestershire sauce
Rice vinegar

The Stance

It is very important that the pit master establish a firm stance above the grill. This ensures that the meat and the guests know who’s in charge.

Four hours later, you’ll be getting kisses, and at Christmas, your friends should know a “Kiss the Cook” apron is in order. And it may seem like a lot of time, but drink some beers and remember that all the love of cooking is in the making.

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